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Khajuraho

Known in the tourism industry as the place of the erotic temples--Temples of Khajuraho represent some of the most exquisite specimens of Hindu architecture and sculpture of medieval India.

Twenty-two sandstone temples of the original 85 have survived, which capture life in every form and mood in stone.

There are 3 major groups of temples. The western group is near the touristy part of town and contains the main temples within a fenced in park. The eastern group contains interesting Jain temples in a walled enclosure and four other temples. The southern group are scattered through the old village.

Khajuraho temples were built by the Rajput kings called the Chandolas between 900 A.D. and 1050 A.D. The legend behind these temples is Hemwati, the beautiful daughter of a Brahmin priest was seduced by the moon god while bathing in a forest pool. Chandravarman, founder of the Chandela Dynasty was born of this union. Ousted by society, Hemwati raised her son in the forest. It is said that when Chandravarman was established as a ruler, his mother implored him (in his dream) to build temples that would reveal human passions and desire. Thus initiated the construction of these temples, to be added to by successive rulers.

Architecturally they are unique from the temple prototype of their period. Each stands on a high masonry platform with a marked upward direction in the structure and each of the chief compartments is mounted by its own roof, grouped so that the highest is in the center and the lowest over the portico. The three main compartments are the entrance (ardhamandapa), assembly hall (mandapa) and sanctum (garbha griha), with further additions in the more developed temples.

For many many years these temples lay forgotten and hidden from the world until they were rediscovered, cleaned and restored to their glorious old heritage in this century only.

Western Group
Kandariya Mahadeo, largest most typical temple soars 31 meters high. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the sanctum sanctorum enshrines a lingam. Chaunsat Yogini, only granite temple and earliest surviving shrine (900 AD). Dedicated to Kali. Another kali temple is the Devi Jagdambe Temple. Chitragupta Temple, dedicated to the sun-god Surya, it faces eastward. The imposing image of the deity in the inner sanctum stands 5 feet high, driving a horse drawn chariot. The group scenes depict the lavish lifestyle of the Chandela courts. Vishwanath Temple, lions flank the northern and elephants the southern steps that lead up to this temple; a Nandi bull faces the shrine and a three-headed image of Brahma is enshrined in the entrance. Lakshmana Temple, the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with Lakshmi, Vishnu's consort are depicted on the lintel over the entrance. The finely carved sanctum has a three-headed idol of Vishnu's incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha. This boar incarnation also appears in a 9 feet high statue at the Varaha Temple. Matangeswara Temple, still a living place of worship, dedicated to Shiva, it has an 8 feet-high lingham and is just outside the precincts of the Western Group.

Eastern Group
Parsvanath Temple, the group's largest Jain temple and the most exquisite in detail. The themes depict, in charming detail, everyday life. Within, the throne faces the bull emblem of the first tirthankara, Adinath.The Parsvanath image was installed in 1860. Ghantai Temple, this Jain temple has a frieze which depicts the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother, and a Jain goddess on a winged Garuda. Adinath Temple, dedicated to the Jain saint, Adinath, is lavishly embellished with sculpted figures including yakshis. The three Hindu temples of the group are the Brahma containing a four-faced lingham, the Vamana with carvings of apsaras in a variety of sensual attitudes adorning its outer walls and Javari with a richly carved gateway and exterior sculptures.

Southern Group
Duladeo Temple, dedicated to Shiva, the apsara and ornamented figures are the temples most striking features. Chaturbhuj Temple has a massive, intricately carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum. Ê

Khajuraho is a very lush, peaceful village where air is fairly clean and life moves along in an amicably soft and simple way.

Photo left: a milk vendor on a bicycle does business with local residents in the early morning. This took place just in front of my hotel.

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