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Spirit of India

South India Cultural Journey
14 Day Cultural Highlights February 7-20, 2008
23 Day South India In Depth February 7-29, 2008

Explore the architecture and history of South India's temples and palaces and enjoy the peaceful ambiance of its abundant natural beauty.

Hospet Temple

We start on the southeast side of the country with arrival in Chennai (formerly called Madras). After a city tour, a short drive brings us to Mahabalpuram, where we stay in a wonderful resort on the Bay of Bengal. From here we explore the ancient temples of the sacred city of Kanchipuram as well as the stone temples and carvings in Mahabalipuram. Next we sail the backwaters of Kerala on traditional rice boats, giving us a unique glimpse of life in the pocket size villages along the narrow canals and lakes. After an overnight on the boat, we enjoy cultural activities in the port town of Cochin--well-known for their Kathakali Dance performances. Our journey then takes us to Islamic culture in Hyderabad and the magnificent palaces of Mysore.

Those who continue on with us will experience the most comprehensive itinerary of South India, venturing into Northern and Central Karnaktaka (Badami, Hospet, Hampi, Bijapur), areas which contain remarkable ruins and well preserved mosques, forts, palaces and temples. These areas are much less touristed. The Vijayanagar city ruins near the village of Hampi are one of the most fascinating historical sites in south India. Bijapur is the Agra of the south, full of ruined and still intact gems of 15th-17th century muslim architecture; it has its world-famous mausoleum as well, the Golgumbaz.

Arrival in Madras transfer to Hotel Taj Connemara. - Day 1

Madras-Mahabalipuram - Day 2
Relaxed morning; 10:30 am start for a city tour of Madras, including the Parthasarathy Temple at Triplicane, 12000 years old, dedicated to Vishnu; and a walking tour of the Mylapore temple area visiting the 16th century Kapeeleswrar temple, dedicated to Shiva, which attracts thousands of devotees. These are living temples where you will see local residents as well as pilgrims who come from afar, in acts of devotion. It is quite a striking experience. We return to the hotel for lunch and drive to Mahabalipuram. You may elect to enjoy a seafood feast on the beach (cost of dinner not included). Hotel GRT Temple Bay Beach resort

Kanchipuram-Mahabalipuram - Day 3
Morning excursion to Kanchipuram, one of the ancient seven sacred cities of India. Known as the Golden City of 1000 Temples, Kanchipuram has 125 recognized shrines dating back to the early Chola Dynasty of around 200BC. The town is also famed for its handwoven silk. Afternoon visit Shore Temple and Five Rathas on the way back to Hotel

Drive to Pondicherry - Day 4
Visit Sri Aurobindo’s Ashram (a meditation centre), founded by the poet philospher Sri Aurobindo, and the Mata Mandir, a center of meditation and an architectural marvel.

Chidabaram-Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Darasuram - Tanjore - Day 5
Early morning 7am departure as temples close 12-4 pm. We drive to Tanjore (Thanjavur) via Chidabaram, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Darasuram villages. No decent hotels to stay overnight until we reach Tanjore. Foreigners are allowed inside these temples.

Tanjore-Trichy-Chettinad - Day 6
Drive to Chettinad via Trichy (140 km/5 hrs). Trichy is surrounded by seven concentric-walled courtyards with magnificent gateways and several shrines. The Sri Ranganathasvami Temple, one of the largest in India, is famous for its superb sculptures, the 21 impressive gopurams and its rich collection of temple jewelry. The Rock-Fort is the landmark of Trichy. A climb of 434 steps leads to the ancient temple of Ganapati on top and a further climb to a Shiva temple.

Arrive in Chettinad where we stay at The Bungala, a charming 75 year old Bungalow, belonging to the Meyyappa Chettiar Family, that has been restored. It is located on the outskirts of the village of Karaikudi. There are 74 other villages that comprise Chettinad. Not yet discovered by the world, Chettinad is a rural area certain to surprise even the most discerning traveller. (B, L, D)

Chettinad-Madurai - Day 7
Morning: explore Karaikudi with its fabulous mansions, once the homes of the wealthy merchant families known as the Chettiars. One speciality of these houses is the woodcarving. We will meet some of the families who have remained in this area. Karaikudi offers extensive antique shopping, a weekly shandy [village market], a number of temples, visits to craftmen working with wood and metal, silversmiths and goldsmiths, attractive textiles and exciting Chettiar cuisine.

Drive to Madurai (2 hrs).  Check in to hotel and rest of morning free.We travel on cycle-rickshaws for our evening visit to the Meenakshi Temple to witness the nightly spiritual ceremony (pooja) in which Lord Shiva is carried in a palanquin accompanied by musicians, temple singers and priests to the temple of his consort, Parvati, to spend the night. He is brought back to his temple in the morning. Hotel Taj Garden Retreat

Madurai - Day 8
Full day of sightseeing. In the morning, we will return to Meenakshi Temple for a full tour. The temple was built in the Dravidian style of temple architecture. The Gopurams are covered from top to bottom with profuse multi-coloured images of gods, goddesses, animals and mythical figures. The main temple has long galleries and large halls supported by columns. The Hall of 1000 Columns has musical pillars. We'll also visit the Nayyaka- Palace built in 1636 in the Indo-Saracenic style.

Afternoon: browse bazaars and textile shops. The people of Madurai are amicable, hospitable, and deeply respect and value their tradition. They lead a relaxed and casual lifestyle. We visit Padumandappam on the street opposite the Meenakshi temple, with 200 tailors. They will stitch a dress to your design within an hour. Afterward, we visit a local family at their home for tea and snacks.

Periyar Wild life Sanctuary - Day 9
Depart early for Periyar (approx. 140 kms & 4 hrs of drive) After lunch, boat ride on Lake Periyar to view wildlife. Home to bison, antelopes, sambars, wild boars, monkeys, langurs, a wide variety of birds, and some 750 elephants. Game viewing by private motor-boat in the evening, (the best time to see wild life). Hotel Spice Village

Backwaters of Kerala Overnight Cruise - Day 10
Morning depart for Kumarakom (approx. 160 kms 4- 5 hr drive) to board a private deluxe Kettuvallom (traditional riceboat) for your overnight tour of the backwaters. A series of canals which thread their way through the state to the sea, allows you a glimpse of life in Kerala impossible to get from road and transport. Along the way you will pass rice fields, tiny villages, boats transporting children to school and farmers transporting their produce to the market, and women completing household tasks such as laundry, and washing utensils. You will disembark from the boat to wander in the villages and talk to the people. The "kettuvolloms" or rice boats are made completely of natural material. Each houseboat has furnished bedrooms with attached showers and toilets. At night the boat will anchor mid stream, and your meals will be specially prepared by the crew from freshly bought produce. (B,L,D)

Cochin - Day 11
Disembark boat at Allepey and drive to Cochin (3 hr). The influence of medieval Portugal, Holland and England can still be seen in this fast growing coastal city. It is also known as the spice city of India. Most of the exports of spices are done from here.

Afternoon half day sightseeing to include St. Francis Church, where Vasco da Gama was buried for 14 years before his remains were transferred to Lisbon. His tombstone still stands. The church was built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars. Nearby is the Mattancherry Palace or "Dutch PalaceÓbuilt in 1557 AD . The central hall on the 1st floor was the coronation hall of the rajas of Cochin. Other rooms depict scenes from the Ramayana and Puranic Legends connected with Hinduism gods.

Next we'll see the Chinese Fishing Nets along Vypeen Island (set up between 1350 - 1450 AD). These cantilevered fishing nets were introduced by traders from the courts of Kublai Khan.

We culminate the day with a Kathkali dance performance at Cochin Cultural Center, arriving by 5 pm to watch the artists make-up. Taj Malabar Hotel

Cochin - Day 12
Our morning tour will include the Jewish Synagogue, constructed 1568 AD, with hand-painted willow-pattern floor tiles brought from Canton in the mid-18th century by a Rabbi who had trading interests there. Afterwards youÕll have time to browse the market area nearby including the well-known antique shops.

Fly Cochin-Bangalore & Drive to Mysore - Day 13
Upon arrival, brief overview of Bangalore; after an early lunch we drive to Mysore (140 kms,4 hrs drive). Enroute we visit Srirangapatnam (16 km from Mysore), the ruins of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan's capital, built on an island in the Cauvery River. We'll see the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, a popular Hindu pilgrimage and Tippu's summer palace, which is now a museum set in a well-maintained garden.

Mysore - Day 14
Full day sight seeing in and around Mysore. Mysore is a magnificent Royal city and site of the Goddess Chamundeswari Temple and the Sacred Chamundi Hill with its Palaces built by Tippu Sultan. Morning excursion to Chamudi Hill to visit Sri Chamundeswari Temple, huge in structure with a seven story Gopuram 40 meters high. On the way up to the hill we see the famous Nandi (Shiva`s Bull) carved out of solid rock and, at five meters high, perhaps the largest. Afterwards, visit Mysore Palace. This beautiful Indo-Saracenic Palace dominates the city's skyline. It was built in 1911-12 at a cost of 4.2 million rupees to replace the former Palace which was burnt down. In the afternoon, an excursion the village of Somnathapur (33 km) to visit the intricately carved star shaped Prasanna Channakeshara Temple built in 1268 AD during the Hoysala Dynasty.

End of Highlights Tour - Those that are ending their tour at this juncture will drive to Bangalore for flight to Madras 9W446 dep 1550 arr 1635. Transfer to Taj Connemara. Shared rooms for wash/change. Evening farewell dinner at the Rain Tree restaurant. Late night transfer to international airport for flight home.

Those continuing will overnight. Lalita Mahal Palace Hotel

Part Two

Drive Mysore-Hassan (170 kms. 4hrs drive) - Day 15
Enroute visit via Belur and Halebid temple complexes (12th-14th century). Built by the Hoysala kings, the temples at Belur and Halebid are the cream of what remains of one of the most artistically exuberant periods of Hindu Cultural development. The wealth of sculptural details found on the exterior and interior of these temples at Halebid & Belur makes them the most outstanding example of Hoysala sculptural art. Taj Garden Retreat (B,L,D)

Drive Hassan - Hospet (350 km) - Day 16
Enroute you will visit the following: Chitradurga - lies at the foot of a group of granite hills, approx 2 hrs drive. The fort here was built in the 17th century by the Nayakas. This was subsequently destroyed by Haider Ali who replaced the mud fort with one built of stone, and Tipu Sultan built a palace, mosque and granaries. Tumkur - is an important market town and 8 kms north is th small Dravidian style Kaidala Keshava temple. It contains some striking stone images. Hiriyur - Built on the bank of the river Vedavati, the Teru-Malleshwara Temple has a 14m- high lamp pillar which holds enough oil for the lamp to be relit only once a year. Malligi Tourist Home. (B,L,D)

Drive Hospet/Hampi/Hospet - Day 17
Hampi which lies 13 kms east of Hospet, was once the seat of the great Vijayanagara empire and the centre of Hindu rule for 200 years from its foundation in 1336. The Vijayanagar city ruins near the village of Hampi are one of the most fascinating historical sites in south India. The superb ruins are set ina beautiful landscape--a hill country with enormous boulders. Extremely wealthy, greater than Rome, they held a monopoly of trade in spices and cotton. This site was chosen for strategic reasons, but the craftsmen excelled in adopting an ingenious style to blend in architectural masterpieces with the barren and rocky landscapes. Most of the sites are 16th century and built during the 20 year reign of Krishna deva Raya. We need a whole day to visit the stunning collection of temples, palaces and market places of Hampi. We will have lunch at the Vaikuna Guest House, its beautiful hilltop setting giving a panoramic view of the Tungabhadra Dam.
Malligi Tourist Home. (B,L,D)

Hospet-Aihole-Pattadami-Badami - Day 18
A full day today. Aihole, the first Chalukyan capital, is home to monuments and sites from as early as 5th cent AD. This includes some important late Chalukyan temples dedicated to Jain divinities. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of Indian temple architectural styles and site of the first built temples, distinct from those carved out of solid rock. Most of these temples were originally dedicated to Vishnu, though some were later converted into Shaivite shrines. Aihole, is mentioned in the inscriptions as Ayyavole or Aryapura. It is regarded as the cradle of Hindu temple architecture; most of its 125 odd temples were built between 6th and 8th centuries. In an area called Morera Angadigalu, excavations have unearthed a large number of prehistoric sites: temples, pottery pieces, pre-Chalukyan bricks, bases of structures.There is an Archaeological Survey of India office here, which we can visit if the group has interest.

Pattadkal, 18 kms from Aihole and on the banks of the Malaprabha River, is the second capital of the Chalukyan kings between 7th and 8th century and the city where the kings were crowned. Most of the temples cluster at the foot of the hill and display a succession of styles of the southern Dravida temple architecture as well as North Indian Nagara style. This clearly illustrates the regions position at the crossroad of North and South Indian traditions. With the exception of one, all the temples are dedicated to Shiva. We arrive at Badami eve.Badami Court Hotel.(B,L,D)

Badami - Day 19
Set in beautiful countryside amongst red sandstone hills, lakes and peaceful farmlands, the small rural village of Badami was once a capital city of the Chalukyan Empire which ruled much of central Deccan between the 4th and 7th centuries A.D. Four of these were cut into the hillside in the early 6th century. Cave 1 reached by climbing 40 steps, has Siva in his manifestation as Nataraja with 18 arms and seen in 81 dance poses. Cave 2 on a higher level has reliefs of Varaha and Vamana and Cave 3 is dedicated to Vishnu. According to a Kanada inscription which is unique to Badami, this cave was excavated in 578 AD and has numerous sculptures including a huge reclining Vishnu. Cave 4 is the only Jain cave and possibly excavated 100 years later.

Other temples of note which we visit includes the Buddhist temple near the ancient artificial Bhuthanatha Lake; the 7th century Mallegitti Sivalaya temple one of the finest examples of the early southern style. Statues of Vishnu and Shiva decorate the outer wall while animal friezes appear along the plinth above the eaves; Jabulinga Temple dating from 699 has three chapels dedicated to the trinity and fine carvings. The North fort temples include mainly 7th century work and give an insight into Badami History. Badami Court Hotel.(B,L,D)

Drive Badami-Bijapur - Day 20
Bijapur is distinct as it resembles a North Muslim city with its mausolea, mosques and palaces. The main landmarks are the Jama Masjid one of the finest in the Deccan with a large, shallow, onion shaped dome and arcaded court. It was built by Ali Adil Shah I in the 16th century. Ibrahim Rauza the 17th century palatial tomb is beautifully proportioned, its slender minarets, carved decorative panels of lotus, wheels and cross patterns and bold Arabic calligraphy bearing witness to the tolerance of Adil Shah of other religions. Gol Gumbaz, the vast tomb of Mohammad Sadil Shah, buried here with his family and favorite court dancer, has been described by some as startlingly ugly. It is the worlds second largest dome unsupported by pillars and has a large whispering gallery. After lunch, served in the gardens of the Madhuvan, we drive approximately 196 kms to Bijapur.
Hotel Madhuvan.

Drive Bijapur-Gulbarga - Day 21
Morning drive to Gulbarga. This town was the first capital of the Bahmanis and is known in South India as the home of Saiyid Muhammad Gesu Daraz Chisti who was instrumental in spreading the Islamic faith in the Deccan in the 14th century. The most striking remains in the town are the fort, with its citadel and mosque and the tombs in its eastern quarter. The mosque covers an area of 3500 sq m and is covered by a dome covering the four corner domes and 75 minor domes making it unique among Indian mosques. The tombs of the Bahmani sultans lie in two groups and the tomb of the Chisti is two stories high with a highly decorated painted dome and a mother of pearl canopy over the grave. Hotel Aditya.

Drive Gulbarga-Bidar-Hyderabad - Day 22
Morning drive to Bidar (115 kms). This walled fort town in North Karnataka was once the capital of the Hamanis and Barid Shahis. The fort is still intact and the palaces and tombs provide some of the finest examples of Muslim architecture in the Deccan, intermingling Hindu and Islamic styles.

After visiting the fort and old town we lunch at a Dhaba, a popular name for an Indian roadside café, where the food is hot and freshly cooked. This is a not to be missed culinary experience. The surroundings are rustic, but the food equivalent of fine dining in any deluxe city hotel. We continue to Hyderabad, a distance of 140 km, arriving early evening. Hotel Taj Krishna

Fly Hyderabad-Bombay - Day 23
After breakfast, we head out of the city (30 km) to the impressive fort at Golconda entered through gateways which have relief ornamentation of birds and animals. The Fateh Darwaza, or Victory Gate, is made of teak with an engraved Hindu deity studded with iron spikes. Within the ramparts lie the mosques, temples, the 3 storeyed armory, the harem, the Hall of Public Audience and the Rani Mahal with the royal baths.

Returning to the city, we stop at the Qutb Shahi Tombs (11 km west of he city). Each tomb is made of black granite or green stone with plaster decorations of fine sculpture, inscriptions and remains of glazed decoration. The larger tombs have their own private mosque.

Fly Hyderabad-Bombay 9w452 dep 1645, arr 1800. Transfer to Hyatt Hotel (shared rooms for wash/change) Farewell dinner and late night transfer to airport for flt home.

PRICES based on min 4 people
Highlights :
$3730 per person, dbl occ,; Single room supplement $935
Plus Air:
COK / BLR $136, BLR/ MAA $122

Full Tour, 23 days: $5225 per person, dbl occ;
Single room supplement $1510

Plus Air:
COK / BLR $136, /HYD/BOM $172

all airfare prices subject to change

Includes:

  • accommodations, dble occ
  • breakfasts, other meals as indicated
  • all transfers and sightseeing by ac mini coach
  • entrance fees to monuments and all activities
  • still camera fees
  • mineral water and soft drinks during long drives and sightseeing excursions
  • accompanying escort
  • porterage
  • 4.89% India Gov Servcie Tax

Does Not Include:

  • international flight
  • insurance (highly recommended)
  • departure taxes
  • tips
  • any expenses of a personal nature such as laundry, phone calls, drinks.

NOTE: *If there are less than four people in the group, we will have local guides up to Mysore and an accompanying escort from Mysore until departure from Hyderabad.

OUE ESCORT
Mr. Jaganath Babu holds a Masters Degree in Art and certificates of training from the Gov of India tourism dept. He has been guiding for fifteen years with a special expertise in temple architecture and archaeology. Jaganath has led tours for many prestigious companies including Sita, Cox and Kings, LPTI and many others. Born and raised in Chennai, he speaks Telugu,Tamil. Hindi and English fluently.

 

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all text & photos © 1997-07, Barbara Sansone