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Spirit of India

South India Cultural Journey
November 5-19 & November 23 - December 7, 2008

Day 1 Arrival in Madras transfer to hotel .

Day 2 Madras-Mahabalipuram
Morning sightseeing of Chennai, the first British major settlement in India. Visit Kapleshwara temple, St. Thomas Church, Art Gallery and St. George Fort. Afternoon drive to Mahabalipuram.

Day 3 Kanchipuram-Mahabalipuram
Excursion to Kanchipuram, with stop at Eagle Temple during the feeding of the eagles by the priests. Kanchipuram has 125 recognized shrines dating back to the early Chola Dynasty of around 200 BC. We visit several of the most outstanding and arrange an audience with the esteemed Shankaracharya, who is equivalent to the Pope in Hindu terms (if available). Kachipuram is also known for its fine hand-woven silk and we will visit the home of a weaver.

Day 4 Mahabalipuram - Pondicherry (110 Km)
Visit the shore temples (Dravidian style of architecture) and the Five Rathas. Drive to Pondicherry. Visit Sri Aurobindo''s Ashram (a meditation centre), founded by the poet philospher Sri Aurobindo, and the Mata Mandir, a center of meditation and an architectural marvel.

Day 5 Pondicherry - Tanjore (200 Km)
Drive to Tanjore Thanjavur) via Gangai konda Cholapuram and Darasuram villages.

Gangakondacholapuram, which literally means "The City of the Chola who conquered the Ganga. The city has all but disappeared. The surviving temple makes a stop here very rewarding. This temple was built by King Rajendra to rival the Brihadisvara temple built by his father Rajaraja in Thanjavur. The two temples have important similarities in the their structure, but the highlight here are the sculptures and carvings, especially those of Shiva. Of particular note is the panel showing Shiva blessing Chandikesvara, a steward in this household. This is considered to be a masterpiece of Chola art. Darasuram lies 5 kms south of Kumbakonam. The Airavatesvara Temple, is the third of the great Chola temples after Thanjavur and Gangaikondacholapuram. Built mainly of granite, the temple has pillars with beautifully carved apsaras and friezes of lively dancing figures and musicians. Each of the pillars within the temple illustrate mythological stories showing the penance of Parvati, Shiva's consort.

The capital of the Great Chola Empire, Thanjavur (Tanjore) also served as the capital for the Nayaka Empire and Maratha rulers. The Chola kings who were great patron of the arts built most of the 93 temples, of which the Brihadisvara Temple is the showpiece. While they lavished their wealth on the temples, they also encouraged the belief in the divine right of kings, and the practice of donating a part of one's wealth to the temple for spiritual gain. The Brihadisvara Temple, also known as the "Big Temple," was built between 985 and 1012 AD by Rajaraja I and is a World Heritage monument. It is a magnificent structure with a 14 storey high vimana, a towered sanctuary that houses the main deity. Built mainly of granite, the temple has superb inscriptions and sculptures of Shiva, his consort Durga and Vishnu. On three sides of the sanctuary are huge sculptures of Shiva in three forms - Nataraja the dancer with 10 arms; Shiva seated with a sword and a trident; and Shiva bearing a spear. There are also 81 carvings showing the various poses of the classical BharatNatyam poses, which is the first record of any classical dance form in this manner. Brihadeeshwara is capped by a monolithic cupola made of a single granite block weighing 80 tons which was taken to the top with the help of a 6 km long ramp, an old technique used by the Egyptians for building pyramids. Its bronzes and handicrafts make Tanjore one of the highlights of a visit to South India.

Day 6 Tanjore - Trichy - Chettinad (133 Km)
Trichy was the citadel of the Chola dynasty in the medieval period. The temple town is surrounded by seven concentric walled courtyards with magnificent gateways and several shrines. The Sri Ranganathasvami Temple, one of the largest in India, is dedicated toVishnu. The unusual aspect of this temple is that it faces south, unlike most other Hindu temples. Legend explains that Rama intended to present the image of Ranganath to a temple in Sri Lanka but this wasimpossible since the deity became fixed here, but it still honours the original destination. The temple is famous for its superb sculpture, the 21 impressive gopurams and its rich collection of temple jewelery. Another unusual aspect is the shrine to Tulukka Nachiyar, the God's Muslim consort. In the 18th century it witnessed the Carnatic wars fought between the French and the English. Lord Robert Clive's house is still there to see and so is the Danish Church. The Rock-Fort is the landmark of Trichy. A climb of 434 steps leads to the ancient temple of Ganapati on top and a further climb to a Shiva temple.

Arrive in Chettinad in time for lunch at The Bungala, a charming 75 year old Chettinad Bungalow, belonging to the Meyyappa Chettiar Family, that has been restored and converted into a heritage guest house. It is located on the outskirts of the village Karaikudi. There are 74 other villages that comprise Chettinad.

Not yet discovered by the world, Chettinad is a rural area certain to surprise even the most discerning traveller. After lunch, explore Karaikudi with its fabulous mansions and with its many temples.

The Chettinad region at one time represented the wealth of Tamil Nadu. The many villages were once the homes of fabulously wealthy merchant families known as the Chettiars. Today it an area of mostly deserted magnificent mansions. It was estimated that just one of the Chettiar houses used 300 tonnes of satinwood and Burma teak in its construction. One of the specialities of these houses is the woodcarving especially on the doors. Traditionally in the jewelery and trading business, Chettiars now own a variety of companies and continue to funnel funds into this remote area. We will visit some of these mansions with our guide, and meet some of the families who have remained in this area.

To see these houses alone would justify a trip there. Apart from the houses, Karaikudi offers extensive antique shopping, weekly shandy [village market], a number of temples, visits to Craftmen working with wood and metal, silversmiths and goldsmiths, attractive Textiles and exciting Chettiar cuisine. Overnight at The Bungala. (B,L,D)

Day 7Chettinad - Madurai (106 Km)
Drive to Madurai, a center of Tamil culture, famous for its writers and poets and the history goes back to the 6th century BC. The Nayakas laid out the old town in the pattern of a lotus with narrow streets surrounding the Minakshi Temple at the center. Minakshi, known as the Fish-eyed Goddess and the consort of Siva is the presiding diety and the daily ceremonies are first performed at her shrine. Evening attend ïPujaÍ ceremony in the Meenakshi Temple, a ritual when Shiva or Sundeswrar as he is known here, is taken to MinakshiÍs sanctuary for the night.

Day 8 Periyar Wild life Sanctuary
Morning visit again the world famous Meenakshi Sundereshwara Temple to tour it. The Minakshi Temple is an outstanding structure dedicated to Minakshi, the fish eyed goddess and consort of Shiva who also has a temple dedicated to him. Since Minakshi is the presiding deity, the daily ceremonies are first performed at her shrine. This is a living temple and each shrine has priests performing rituals in front of them and there is also a temple elephant. The temple is entered through massive gopurams or gateways profusely covered in very colorful carvings, which are believed to be an encyclopaedia of Indian dance poses. The mandapas surrounding the main shrine have exquisitely carved pillars and panels. Of note is the panel showing the marriage between Shiva and Minakshi and another showing Shiva in his 24 forms.

The thousand pillar hall is a museum that displays temple architecture. Also visit the Tirumalai Nayak Palace, built in 1636 in the Indo Mughal style. Its 15 domes and arches are adorned with stucco work. Its? Celestial Pavilion, an arcaded octagonal structure, is curiously constructed in brick and mortar without supporting rafters. The original complex had an armory, a theatre, royal quarters and a shrine. Only a quarter remains since Thirumalai?s grandson removed sections to build another palace in Tiruchirapalli. Also visit the Tirumalai Nayak Palace built in the Indo-Saracenic style, the main attraction here are the musical pillars and pathway.

Afternoon drive to Periyar. Overnight at Taj Garden Retreat

Day 9 ?Backwaters of Kerala
Early morning private boat ride to view wildlife. After breakfast drive to Kumarakon to board a private deluxe Kettuvallom (traditional riceboat) for your overnight tour of the backwaters. A series of canals which thread their way through the state to the sea, allows you a glimpse of life in Kerala impossible to get from road and transport. Along the way you will pass rice fields, tiny villages, boats transporting children to school and farmers transporting their produce to the market, and women completing household tasks such as laundry, and washing utensils. You will disembark from the boat to wander in the villages and talk to the people. The "kettuvolloms" or rice boats are made completely of natural material. Each houseboat has furnished bedrooms with attached showers and toilets. At night the boat will anchor mid stream, and your meals will be specially prepared by the crew from freshly bought produce. (B,L,D)

Day 10 Backwaters - Alleppey - Cochin (60 Km)
Disembark boat at Allepey and drive to Cochin. Afternoon independent. One of the finest natural harbors on the Arabian Sea Coast of India, Cochin, an ancient harbor town now renamed Kochi, has been a port of call for foreign traders from very early times. A city of peninsulas and islands, it is the hub of Kerala. The influence of medieval Portugal, Holland and England can still be seen in this fast growing coastal city. It is also known as the spice city of India. Most of the exports of spices are done from here. Evening attend a performance of Kathakali dance; arrive by 5 pm to watch the performers apply the elaborate make-up.

Day 11 Cochin
Full day exploring Cochin. In the morning visit the Jewish synagogue, one of the oldest in India, is set in the heart of the area known as ?Jew Town? surrounded by an aromatic spice market, and interesting shops selling antiques. The synagogue is decorated with blue ceramic Chinese tiles, each distinct in their design. The pictures on the tiles relate the tale of the romance between a wealthy mandarin. We spend time in the surrounding markets and walk to the Mattancherry Palace, which was commissioned by the Portuguese for the raja of Kochi in exchange for trading rights. The palace is twostories high and is built in the traditional Kerala style known as nalukattu (four buildings). The palace exhibits memorabilia from the raja of Kochi? collection, but it is best known for its outstanding murals painted on the wooden walls. The royal bedroom has ceilings and walls covered with forty-five 16th century paintings illustrating the Ramayana.

In afternoon we walk in the Heritage Zone, which with its varied architectural styles, highlights Cochin?s history of being occupied by various foreign rulers, mainly the Dutch, Portuguese and British. You will visit St Francis? Church, first established by the Portuguese in the 1500?s. This is one of the earliest European churches in the Country, with a simple facade that served as the prototype for future Churches here. Vasco Da Gama was buried here in 1524 before his body was taken to Portugal 14 years later. You will also visit the Santa Cruz Cathedral built in the late 19th century and has impressive murals on its ceiling. Finally, visit the Chinese Fishing nets, first erected between 1350 and 1450, which indicate trading ties with China.

Day 12 Cochin - Ooty (200 Km)
Drive to Ooty, the most picturesque hill stations in South India. It is an extensive valley enclosed on all sides but the west, by a lofty range of hills and numerous waterfalls.

Day 13 Mysore
Morning drive to to Mysore. On arrival check in at hotel. After lunch, a half-day sight seeing tour of Mysore visiting the palace of the Maharaja built in 1911-12. The palace is a harmonious synthesis of the Hindu and saracenic styles of architecture with magnificient Archways, Domes, Turrets, Colonnades and Sculptures.Also visit the Art Gallery, drive upto Chamundi hill to see Chamundeshwari Temple & panoramic view of Mysore. On your way back see the Nandi Bull -a monolith structure.

Day 14 Mysore
Full day excursion to Sravanbelagola, Belur and Halebid. At Sravanbelagola, hewn out of a single rock and visible from a distance of 25 kms is the statue of Lord Gomteshwara, which is bathed with milk , sandalwood, saffron once every 12 years. The Chennakesava temple of Belur built 900 years ago is an exquisite example of Hoysala art. Halebid 's 12th century Hoysaleswara and Kedareswara temples are masterpieces of Hindu art.

Day 15 Mysore-Bangalore (140km)
Afternoon city tour of Bangalore with an excursion to Cubbon Park laid out in 1864, 300 acres of verdant park-land from the heart of Bangalore city. The Bangalore Palace, built by the Wodeyer ruler of Mysore over a 100 years ago, the unusual structure of Granite, the palace is modeled on the Windsor Palace. The fort and Tipu Sultan's palace, a collection of memorabilia of the 18th century. We also visit the Government Museum and Venkatappa Art gallery - one of the oldest in the country, established in 1886 adorned with relic of Mohenjodaro period. The historic sprawling gardens at the Lal Bagh extended over 240 acres, was laid out by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan in 18th century. We drive past the Vidhan Soudha, High Court and the bull temple.

Transfer to hotel Taj Residency where you have rooms for wash/change/rest./dinner. Late evening transfer to International airport.

PRICE (based on min 4 people):

2008: $3875 per person; single room supplement $1150

Includes:

  • accommodations, dble occ
  • daily breakfast & dinner, B,L,D on riceboat
  • accompanying escort , min 4 people
  • all transfers and sightseeing by ac Toyota Qualis or Tempo Traveler
  • entrance fees to monuments and all activities

Does Not Include:

  • insurance
  • international flight
  • departure taxes
  • tips
  • camera fees
  • any expenses of a personal nature such as laundry, phone calls, drinks.


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all text & photos © 1997-07, Barbara Sansone