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Forbidden Himalayas

Detailed Itinerary

The district of Kinnaur is no doubt the most fascinating region of the Indian Himalaya, fringing the Tibetan plateau in the north-east quarter of Himachal Pradesh.

It's geographical inaccessibility has resulted in attracting sporadic attention of only the most tenacious of travelers.

The mystique of the forbidden has added to the aura of the unknown.

Foreign travelers have not been permitted into the districts of Kinnaur and Spiti Valley until just five years ago.

Kinnaur was the most guarded secret of the Himalayas, the land of legends and mythology, abode of the Gods and Demons. A land of peace and harmony, where each one is a Hindu Buddhist and every village has a Hindu Temple and a Buddhist Gompa. Only here in this world that prays in ageless temples, has the culture continued, uninterrupted by any outside invasion or disturbance, for over a thousand years.

Kinnaur boasts the tallest mountains, fastest rivers, breathtaking gorges and awe inspiring valleys. A land of contrasting landscapes where the terrain changes from thick pine forests and fruit orchards to bare brown mountains and finally into moonscape-like cold desert within the same days travel. It offers the highest mountain trails, roads and bridges for the adventurer; highest wildlife reserves which abound with the most exotic birds, animals, flowers and herbs for the naturalist; age old temples, exquisite villages, traditional architecture still in its pristine beauty and the tribal lifestyles of its inhabitants for the culturally oriented; a place to experience the sounds of silence and the pristine glory of nature for the solitude seeker. Kinnaur is shagri-la!

Treks, Hikes and Views
Kalpa offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the Himalaya, from mighty Mt. Kinner Kailash rising majestically from the river bed; fruit orchards, forests, and glinting glaciers, to rocky pinnacles with snow capped peaks as if appearing to spread itself out for the admiring gaze of the visitor.

The Old Hindustan Tibet road which passes through Roghi, Kalpa and Pangi, is the last village on this remaining section of the tributary to the ancient silk route, at one time offered the easiest access to Tibet. Over the centuries it gained importance as an alternate route for the pashmina wool trade from Tibet, a trade traditionally confined to the routes down the Indus into Ladakh and over to Kashmir.

The romance of the old HT lies not only in the excitement of retracing a legendary route trod by many adventurous feet but it chronicles in its passage a remarkable transition in climate, vegetation, terrain, people and culture. A land of contrasting landscapes where the terrain changes from thick pine forests and fruit orchards through the snow clad peaks to bare brown mountains and finally into moonscape like cold desert bordering Tibet within the same days' travel.

The people and their lifestyles change as vividly as the landscape. Old HT offers beautiful walks on either side of Kalpa. From Pangi, a nights' camp out in Kashang is a great way to experience pasture country. For those preferring to spend nights in comfort, the pastures above Kalpa are brilliant and only a couple of hours climb from the road head. Towards Roghi, on the old HT road, are the famous Roghi cliffs falling sheer to the Satluj 1000 meters below.

The Baspa Valley is a trekkers' paradise, any portion of the route forms an enjoyable short trek; short hikes to the pastures from any of the villages here are delightful. This is also ranked as the most beautiful of all Himalayan valleys. The towering rock features of the Kinner Kailash on one side, the forested Dhauladhars on the other, the crop fields and fruit orchards in the middle, the blue green Baspa dancing and singing through the valley is a feast for the eyes. During autumn it is transformed into a remarkable festival of colors with the blood red buck wheat dominating the harvested fields, the leaves of fruit trees and Burberrys adding yellow, pink and softer reds even the blue pine enters the mood with its older needles adding the golden yellow.

Fairs & Festivals
At Sangla: Bishu (April) Dakhraini (July) and Ukiang, the festival of flowers (September)
In the village of Sangla, every festive occasion is celebrated in grand proportions, as hundreds circle the temple square to the rhythmic beat of the ceremonial drum.

At Rarang: Guru Sangyus Cham (either May or June), a buddhist festival which exhibits the eight tantrik forms of Padmasambhava. The Lamas present a masked dance, popularly called Lion dance of Rarang.

In Pangi Village: (Mid July) Dakhraini. There is a mass exodus from the village to the pastures atop Piri mountain, 4400mt a sheer cliff behind the Pangi village. Fun begins after planting prayer flags on the cliff. Songs of love and lust are sung in all corners of the pastures and charades of sexual act are performed by the men folk. Another elaborate play involves a mock wedding, where one group abducts the bride, a middleman intercedes to mend the matters and gifts of pebbles are presented to the couple.

Kashmir Fair near Kalpa (early August) and Peo Fair in Recong Peo (end October)
These two festivals give a brief glimpse of both Tibetan and Kinnaur cultures. Troupes from all over the district participate in folk dances and performances by masked Lamas from Pin Valley. Shops sell traditional handloom, cloth, silver ware and other goods beside agricultural produce.

Detailed Itinerary